Vitamin B for the skin
Niacinamide is a much loved vitamin. It is a water-soluble
vitamin, grouped under the B3 group vitamins and is amide
to nicotinic acid. Niacinamide is known for its safe and
effective use in common cosmeceutical formulations. It is frequently used in dermal therapy treatments for various applications for
its relevance in its mechanisms of action and in the treatment of skin
conditions.
Mechanisms of action of niacinamide
Niacinamide has been found to have many functions
on a cellular level. Topical application of niacinamide reduces trans-epidermal
water loss (TEWL) in the epidermis and increase
moisture levels by binding on the epidermal cells in the cornified layer. It
encourages biosynthesis of ceramides, lipids, free fatty acids and cholesterol
found in the stratum corneum by the activation of the mRNA expression. All of which is why niacinamide has an important function of
homeostasis and maintaining the epidermal barrier function. There is an improvement in the stratum corneum thickness by 10% with the use of a topical moisturizer containing
niacinamide.
Topical niacinamide is proven to have
anti-inflammatory effects for the treatment of various skin disorders. This is mainly because its inhibitor role.
The major inhibition of the nuclear enzyme poly-ADP-ribose polymerase-1
(PARP-1) takes place when activated by UV radiation. PARP-1 on the other hand has
many important functions, which involve: controlling the nuclear factor-kB (NFkB)-mediated
transcription, its involvement with DNA repair, genomic stability and its
regulation of some transcription factors with the expression of inflammatory cytokines,
adhesive molecules and inflammatory mediators. Niacinamide
is the key inhibitor for the expression of intercellular adhesion molecule-I
(ICAM-I) and for major
histocompatiability complex II (MHC-II). A steroid sparing
effect can be seen from the inhibition of macrophage migration inhibition
factor (MIF) due to the up regulation not encountering anti-inflammatory
effects on their use compared with other cytokines.
Topical niacinamide can reduce sebum production with its
sebo-suppressive properties and have direct inhibitory
effect on propionbacterium acne when there is an inhibition of the Sir2
enzymes. Improvements in acne with the topical application of 4% of niacinamide has been studied.
However, in cases of excess sebocyte secretions niacinamide is reported to be
dose dependant.
Niacinamide is also able to inhibit the transfer of melanosomes from
melanocyts to keratinocytes giving a lightening effect on the skin. The combination of
topical niacinamide with other lightening ingredients containing tyrosinase
inhibitors synergistically gives better results. This is due to minimal
inflammation induced by the anti-inflammatory effects of niacinamide.
The Topical Use of Niacinamie for Skin Conditions
The topical treatment of niacinamide has been widely used for the
treatments of various inflammatory skin conditions such as acne vulgaris,
atopic dermatitis (AD), rosacea and autoimmune bullous dermatoses. It has also
shown to have great improvements in the skin barrier function by decreased
sebum excretions, reduced hyperpigmention and redness in visible photoageing. Nicainamide has been seen to having positive effects
on the reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, skin sallowness and skin
elasticity.
My Views on Topical Niacinamide
Niacinamide is known for so many of its benefits for the skin. It is an ingredient that can remain efficacious, as it is able to remain stable in light, heat and oxygen. A pH ranging from 4
to 7 is optimal for a product containing niacinamide. This is one of my favourite ingredients as there is very little evidence in scientific data to suggest niacinamide
is toxic, but rather a lot more research and findings have been related to its
low-toxic profile. It serves as a very important cell metabolizer, inhibitor
and helps with DNA repair. There are many treatments available for various skin
conditions that all have a commonly use topical niacinamide for its
anti-inflammatory effects, lightening effects, and effects on the epidermal
barrier function of the skin.
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