Many clients walk into my clinic and tell me they've had a microdermabrasion treatment before. One of my first questions I ask in response is "Do you know if you had a crystal or a diamond tip microdermabrasion?" I think about 1 out of 10 clients will actually know which one they had and the benefits of the treatment. This reflects on how much people are being educated before they have a treatment performed. The most important part of the consultation is to inform your client of the benefits, the risks, the possible side effects and all that comes with any treatment. I'm writing this post because microdermabrasion has been a very popular treatment in the last decade and it has so many benefits. But not many people are being educated on the importance of it. So I hope this post can help those who would like some answers!
What is microdermabrasion?
In a nutshell, it is a mechanical exfoliation procedure. Through its abrasive nature it can reach different depths of the skin. Overall this will resurface the skin and stimulate the wound healing process which can improve skin barrier function, smoother skin texture, reduce surface pigmentation and have many other benefits for the skin.
There are 2 different types of microdermabrasion: Crystal or Diamond
Crystal microdermabrasion: The crystals are made up of substances that include aluminium oxide, sodium chloride, sodium bicarbonate and magnesium oxide.
The most common particulate used is aluminium oxide. This is due to that it is naturally found. It has many properties including it is water insoluble and it naturally abrasive.
These crystals are propelled onto the skin by the positive pressure from the suction of the machine and the negative pressure removes the crystals and cellular debris into a waste jar.
Diamond microdermabrasion: This is using a diamond encrusted tip for the abrasive action. A combination of the diamond tip and the suction are used to achieve clinical results. There are coarser tips for different areas of the body and generally the machines have the ability for the operator to control the level of abrasion during the treatment. The benefits of using diamond tip compared to crystals is the ability to perform a more invasive treatment when wanting to reach pinpoint bleeding. Sometimes, crystal particulate can be an annoyance to clean and remove and clients can leave feeling gritty. However, the disadvantages of the diamond tips is they need to be sterilised after each use to prevent infection risk. Unfortunately, not every clinic has access to an autoclave and performs diamond microdermabrasion. These clinics and operators are putting themselves and clients at risk.
What are the benefits of a microdermabrasion?
This treatment can be performed on all skin fitzpatrick types, there is low risk of complications such as scarring and pigmentation, minimal side effects, can be used in combination with many other treatments and has short recovery time.
Who can have it?
This is one of the best things I love about performing microdermabrasion treatments as nearly every skin type can have this treatment done!
Here is a list of all the suitable candidates for this treatment:
- Uneven/rough texture
- Minor photodamage: thickening of stratum corneum, keratosis, superficial pigmentation
- Hyperpigmentation (very superficial), lentigines, melanoma
- Dull, sallow skin
- Enlarged pores
- Mild scarring & Striae
-Acne grade I to II (non-cystic acne)
- Fine rhytids
- Chronological ageing
- Dry, thickened and scaling skin
- Oily, thickened skin
- Milia
- Keratosis pilaris
- Seborrhoeic keratosis scaling
- Enhancement of penetration of active ingredients and medications
- Blending of treatment boundaries
- Rosacea and telangiectasia: The treatment will improve the barrier function of the skin so can help indirectly with skin sensitivity
Who can't have it?
People who have unrealistic expectations may often feel disappointment after a microdermabrasion if they have rhytids at rest, deep scarring, ice pick scarring, deep hyper pigmentation disorders and deep melasma. Microdermabrasion may not be a suitable treatment for them, however they can have microdermabrasion for the benefits suggested above.
Possible complications and side effects
Although microdermabrasion is a fairly safe and minimally invasive treatment low side effects and complications can still occur. These complications can include:
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- Eye sensitivity due to crystals lodging on the cornea
- Bruising, purpura and petechiae
- Urticaria (vary rare cases)
- Infection due to cross-contamination of non-sterilised hand pieces
- Scarring
- Pronounced bleeding, pain, heat/burning, oedema and erythema
- Stripping
- Photosensitivity and Hypersensitivity
- Micro-blisters: Applying microdermabrasion in a stationary mode separating the epidermis from the dermis
What to expect post microdermabrasion
Immediately post treatment the skin will have no barrier as the stratum corneum has been removed. The skin will feel taught and may flake, it can also feel irritated. There can be mild to moderate erythema which dissipates within 24 hours of treatment. Some mild oedema and heat can also be noticed. At day 3 there may also be some shedding from the re-epithelialisiation after 24 hours. Therefore, it is important to NOT pick, pull or scratch the treated skin and to avoid the sun completely. Application of sunscreen daily is mandatory and avoiding make up, exercise and waxing of the treated area is also recommended for 48-72 hours. Ceasing retinol, AHA and BHA products for up to 4 days is recommended and re introducing these products will be less sensitive for the skin.
For optimal results
The best way to achieve great results is to pre treat the skin with ingredients that can encourage desquamation for example retinols, AHA's and BHA's. It is crucial to follow through with post treatment care as the barrier is lost for 24 hours and needs to be replenished with lipids and moisture e.g. Hyalauronic acid, aloe vera and anti-inflammatory or antioxidant ingredients. For clinical efficacy at least 6 treatments should be performed within a spacing of 4-6 weeks. It is important for the operator to go through all the health and safety issues, precautions, contraindications and complications as well as the potential benefits before a treatment and also have a clear understanding of the treatment parameters, variables and technique to achieve desirable clinical endpoints.
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